Go Back   Salish Sea MINI Motoring Club > Shop Talk > Do-it-Yourself Reference

Do-it-Yourself Reference A collection of DIY procedures for those projects you want to do on your own


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 02-13-2011, 05:41 PM
DneprDave's Avatar
DneprDave DneprDave is offline
SSMINI Member | Vice President
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 155
Garage
Adding extra gages

I bought some Marshall gages for the MINI. They are the ones that are a match for the standard MINI gages. http://www.marshallinstruments.com/c...per_gauges.cfm

I got gages for boost/vacuum, water temperature, oil pressure, and oil temperature. My Bell 955 radar detector already shows voltage, so I didn't need that.

The manufactured gage pods seemed expensive to me. In looking at the 2 1/8" Marshall gages, they looked as if they would fit into a piece of 2" ABS sewer pipe and they did! Black ABS was just right for me as I wanted black gage pods, and I already had some 2" ABS pipe in my junk pile.

I also had enough scrap 1/8" sheet aluminum to hold the gage pods, that was more than big enough for my purposes.

I sawed the ABS pipe off so that the mounting studs on the back of the gages extended 1/4" past the back of the pipe, this would give me enough extra thread to screw the mounting nuts on to the backs of the gages and past the aluminum braket, without having the threads extend past the top of the mounting nut.





Then, by trial and error, I made a cardboard pattern that positioned the gages in such a way that I could see them through the steering wheel, when I was comfortably seated behind the steering wheel, it took four tries.

I transferred my final pattern to the aluminum by tracing around it with a Sharpie. I also marked the position of the holes for the gage mounts and gage transmitter wires at the same time.



I cut the dog bone shaped gage mount out with a scroll saw and dressed the edge with a file and sanding wheel, a drill press finished the mounting holes for me.



I had to bend the aluminum into a curve, so that the faces of the new gages would be square with the face of the tachometer. I did this in increments until I got the aluminum mount bent to where I wanted it.



The aluminum gage mount attaches to the back of the tachometer with a screw that is already on the tach's back, I just found a sheet metal screw that was the same gauge and pitch as the factory screw, but much longer. I cut it down so it was 1/2" longer than the factory screw, to make up for the recess in the back of the tach and the thickness of the aluminum. I also bent the aluminum mounting tab to match the curve of the back of the plastic tach housing, so the bracket would be flush against the back of the tachometer.

Paint doesn't like to stick to aluminum without primer, so I got a spray can of zinc chromate primer, to prime the aluminum. I prepared the surface with a Scotch bright pad and wiped it down with acetone. After the primer dried, I gave it a coat of semi gloss black.









I used car polish and synthetic wax to give the black ABS a finish similar to the semi gloss black on the mounting bracket.

Now that I have the gages mounted, I have to hook them up! I'll post a step by step of that, as soon as I get that finished.

Dave
__________________
2010 MINI Cooper Clubman S, Chili Red/black, Automatic

Last edited by DneprDave; 02-13-2011 at 07:07 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-13-2011, 07:28 PM
Chili-S's Avatar
Chili-S Chili-S is offline
SSMINI Founder | President | Events Coordinator
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Olympia
Posts: 1,537
Garage
Very nice! You've done a great job of designing and building your own gauge pod. It's nice to have the pictures to go along with your description of the process.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-13-2011, 08:47 PM
phydeaux's Avatar
phydeaux phydeaux is offline
SSMINI Member | Treasurer
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Maple Valley, WA
Posts: 1,301
Garage
VERY impressive, Dave. Very impressive, indeed. That is some great ingenuity and creativity. I would love to see that in person.
__________________


2005 DS/B MCS Phydeaux <--> WA Plate - "2AAREQD" (gone)
2012 RG/B MCs Countryman All4 <--> WA Plate - "RLRCSTR" (gone)
2015 DB/B F56s <--> WA Plate "RLRCSTR"
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-14-2011, 05:10 AM
prs1's Avatar
prs1 prs1 is offline
SSMINI Founder / Financial Officer
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Tacoma
Posts: 567
Garage
Nice job and usefull ta boot. thanks for the insperation.
__________________
http://www. Pete
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-14-2011, 07:33 AM
Kristin's Avatar
Kristin Kristin is offline
SSMINI Forum Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Roy, Washington
Posts: 1,164
Garage
Looks great and I love the DIY pics.
__________________
Kristin

2012 Boss 302
2012 Shelby GT500
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-14-2011, 03:27 PM
onramp onramp is offline
SSMINI Forum Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Renton
Posts: 224
Very cool.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-22-2011, 01:14 PM
Agent99's Avatar
Agent99 Agent99 is offline
SSMINI Forum Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Seattle
Posts: 971
Thanks for sharing. This is really great!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-19-2011, 07:06 AM
SMOG's Avatar
SMOG SMOG is offline
SSMINI Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 620
Garage
Cravenspeed & Marshall Gauges

Dave, your creativity in the gauge installation is very good, kudos!

Here is what I did to my 2009 MCa for gauges.

http://www.mini4fun.info/09_MCa_Gaug...6_Photos..html

I cannot wait to install this setup in my 2011 MCSa when the parts become available.

Stephen
__________________
I wish MINI had a dealership as close to us as the Mazada, VW, Subaru and Honda provide.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-19-2011, 07:19 AM
GoKart's Avatar
GoKart GoKart is offline
SSMINI Founder
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Olympia
Posts: 228
Garage
This is beautiful!

I'm glad I have the Chrono package--otherwise I'd be adding these...
__________________
John


The best way to travel between any two points lies along the twisty roads...



Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-19-2011, 11:01 AM
DneprDave's Avatar
DneprDave DneprDave is offline
SSMINI Member | Vice President
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 155
Garage
Stephen, I used your instructions to hook up my gages! You pointed me to the switched power/ground on the cigarette lighter and the instrument light dimmer wire, that worked great!

The mechanical boost/vacuum gage was the easiest, I used eleven ft of black vinyl tubing from my BSH Dual boost port on the PCV line, to get the pressure/vacuum signal to the gage. Cravenspeed now has a universal water temperature adapter that works for both the manual and automatic transmission MINIs.

http://www.cravenspeed.com/products/...-Adapters.html

I also used Cravenspeed's oil pressure adapter. For the oil temperature adapter, I followed the advice of a post on NMA.

http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...need-help.html

In Mikeyb17's post, he suggested remotely mounting the oil pressure sender, to make more room for mounting the oil temperature sender to the same adapter. I used two feet of 1/4" hydraulic hose to mount the pressure sender on the driver's side of the engine compartment.





You have to bleed the oil out of the Cravenspeed adapter to insure that the temperature sender is not in an air pocket. You can just crack the stock sender on the end of the adapter, while the engine is running, to bleed the air out. Though the temperature probe is in a dead end leg, it is close enough to the engine that eddy currents in the oil will warm the probe to oil temperature.

Dave
__________________
2010 MINI Cooper Clubman S, Chili Red/black, Automatic
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 06-19-2011, 04:10 PM
Chilliminiac Chilliminiac is offline
SSMINI Forum Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: University Place, WA
Posts: 278
Garage
Adding Extra Gages

Very, very nice! Do you teach classes for the rest of us who might be gage challenged?
__________________
All things CHILI
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 06-19-2011, 05:59 PM
SMOG's Avatar
SMOG SMOG is offline
SSMINI Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 620
Garage
Bleeding oil pressure sending unit

Dave:

I got lucky with the oil pressure sending unit. It leaked enough the first 2 times I started the engine (for a few seconds each to check for leaks) that it must have eliminated the airlock, because it did leak. Without torque specs you are working sort of blind and really do not want to over tighten anything!

I used a combination of Alta and NAM for instructions and some of my own common sense, and yes, I can hear the laughter from here! I have 40 plus years of electrical engineering design and application as a technician who actually had to do the work, not just an egghead coming up with impractical designs. That is not to say I never had failures but I tried to learn from them. I have worked in machine shops and do some of my own machine work as evidenced by my own Hotlink for the Automatic Transmission.

The engine coolant temperature sending unit mount that Cravenspeed offers (they call it a Hotlink) is something I bought to reverse engineer to adapt to the Automatic Transmission. Cravenspeed really liked it and asked if they could use the design.

Mounting the oil temp sender to the Tapless Adapter along with a remote Coolant Sending unit is a good idea, if you can keep the lines from vibrating and tearing themselves apart. Why did you use a 45 degree angle elbow in that remote line to the tapless adapter?

I know that the Cravenspeed Tapless Adapter is a steel unit that weighs a lot for its size and then when you add the sending unit to the Marshall Gauges to it the entire thing is pretty pendulous. Are there any machinists in the group who could add their 2 cents about the feasibility of making that "Adapter" out of titanium to reduce weight and at the same time increase strength???

I am willing to help aynone if I can.

Stephen
__________________
I wish MINI had a dealership as close to us as the Mazada, VW, Subaru and Honda provide.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 06-20-2011, 03:48 PM
DneprDave's Avatar
DneprDave DneprDave is offline
SSMINI Member | Vice President
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 155
Garage
I used the 45 degree fitting because that's what I had, it's the one that came with the Cravenspeed adapter. Also it pointed the hose in a good direction.

The hydraulic hose is very heavy duty, rated at five thousand psi. It's definitely overkill, but that's the smallest the hydraulics place I used had. It is zip tied along it's length and doesn't vibrate at all.

The hose fitting that came with the Hotlink, to make it work with the auto transmission, didn't screw very far into the Hotlink adapter, so I had to run a 3/8" pipe tap into the adapter to deepen the threads enough to get the hose fitting screwed in the right amount.

I covered all my wiring in flexible cable sheathing I bought at Harbor Freight and tie wrapped it all into place, I'm pleased with the look.

Thanks again, Stephen, for your excellent write up. It really helped.

Dave
__________________
2010 MINI Cooper Clubman S, Chili Red/black, Automatic
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 06-20-2011, 04:28 PM
SMOG's Avatar
SMOG SMOG is offline
SSMINI Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 620
Garage
Hydraulic hose

Dave:

Thanks for the explanations! You did a first class job.

How and where did you mount that remote sending unit? Photos?

I talked with Marshall Gauges, Cravenspeed and Custom Mini and they all liked the idea of a remote mount but had not done it yet.

Stephen
__________________
I wish MINI had a dealership as close to us as the Mazada, VW, Subaru and Honda provide.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 06-20-2011, 04:56 PM
DneprDave's Avatar
DneprDave DneprDave is offline
SSMINI Member | Vice President
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 155
Garage
The hose and sending unit are pretty close to the same position as in the second photo in post 10. I tucked and tie wrapped the hose and sender under the radiator support that runs around the driver's side of the engine compartment to the strut tower. The hose bends around in front of the radiator surge tank, only a few inches of the hose are visible between the surge tank and the Cravenspeed adapter. I wrapped the pressure sender in dense packing foam to prevent rattles. I have a ground wire hose clamped to the base of the sender. All the grounds return to the engine ground lug on the center front the engine, it is mostly concealed under the plastic cover over the spark plug wires. The wires for the senders are inside corrugated cable sheathing and follow the hydraulic hose and then on to the spark plug wire cover, with wires to the senders branching off at each sender.

I went out to take a picture, but I couldn't see enough of the installation for a good photo.

Dave
__________________
2010 MINI Cooper Clubman S, Chili Red/black, Automatic
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Adding a guest to RSVP crsmini Off Topic 0 12-15-2010 02:33 PM


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:28 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Garage Plus, Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.
Salish Sea MINI Motoring Club 2010 - 2016