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Do-it-Yourself Reference A collection of DIY procedures for those projects you want to do on your own


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  #1  
Old 06-19-2011, 08:13 AM
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Quad Light Bar Install

I installed a VIP Custom Quad Light Bar on my 2011 MCSa and here is how I did it. I did not include how to remove the grill since it has been covered in so many other Forums and in the installation instructions.

http://www.mini4fun.info/Quad_Lamps/Hella_500s.html

Stephen
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Old 06-19-2011, 04:58 PM
Chilliminiac Chilliminiac is offline
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Quad light Bar

Nice looking installation!
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Old 06-20-2011, 05:42 PM
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Light bar

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Originally Posted by Chilliminiac View Post
Nice looking installation!
Thank you!

Stephen
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:17 PM
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I want to add driving lights too. I real glad you are blazing the way with your write ups. It sure make it easier!

I want to put some aircraft landing lights on my MINI. I have some 100Watt GE lamps that are mounted in steel NAPA light housings, I've had them on other cars I've owned, total cost is around $30 per unit. As I have a 2010, I want to mount them in the space where the 2011's have the brake cooling duct intake. I want to move the mounting from the bottom of the light housing to the back. That way, there won't be a visible mounting bracket and the lights will appear to be floating in front of the lower grill.

They also make 250 Watt lamps, that fit in the same housings. Hmmm, I'd probably need a bigger battery if I got the high power lamps.

Dave
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DneprDave View Post
I want to add driving lights too. I real glad you are blazing the way with your write ups. It sure make it easier!

I want to put some aircraft landing lights on my MINI. I have some 100Watt GE lamps that are mounted in steel NAPA light housings, I've had them on other cars I've owned, total cost is around $30 per unit. As I have a 2010, I want to mount them in the space where the 2011's have the brake cooling duct intake. I want to move the mounting from the bottom of the light housing to the back. That way, there won't be a visible mounting bracket and the lights will appear to be floating in front of the lower grill.

They also make 250 Watt lamps, that fit in the same housings. Hmmm, I'd probably need a bigger battery if I got the high power lamps.

Dave
Not sure how much smoke you plan on generating under the hood or dash cooked wiring but those lamps are waaaaay more powerful than anything designed for the highways and possibly would not be legal.

S.
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Old 06-20-2011, 07:49 PM
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I've had them on a lot of cars over the last 30 years. I use 10 gage wire, with a Ford starter solenoid for a relay. Yeah, they're not legal, but I've never used them if there was another car in sight and have never been busted for having them. I tap into a high beam wire on a headlight, and run it through a switch on the dash as a trigger for the solenoid. I'm thinking of using the stock MINI driving light switch in line with the solenoid trigger voltage.

Is there a cut out on the dash pad for the MINI switch or is surgery to the dash pad necessary?

Dave
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Old 06-21-2011, 05:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DneprDave View Post
I've had them on a lot of cars over the last 30 years. I use 10 gage wire, with a Ford starter solenoid for a relay. Yeah, they're not legal, but I've never used them if there was another car in sight and have never been busted for having them. I tap into a high beam wire on a headlight, and run it through a switch on the dash as a trigger for the solenoid. I'm thinking of using the stock MINI driving light switch in line with the solenoid trigger voltage.

Is there a cut out on the dash pad for the MINI switch or is surgery to the dash pad necessary?

Dave
Not sure about a precut hole for the switch since my MINI had the switch already mounted. Cutting a hole is not difficult. Just checked with Real OEM and they show a separate part for the dash panel AND lamp switch.

That should take the current but if you use a Mini Driving Light Switch, which really only controls the Mini Relay, then the output side(lampside) of that relay must be capable of handling the current of the Starter Solenoid, whatever that may be. Have you ever measured the current required to activate that solenoid?

You will be doubling the current load with two 100W lamps and more than quadrupling the load with 250W lamps. How is your charging circuit?????

S.
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Last edited by SMOG; 06-21-2011 at 08:00 AM. Reason: Updated Info
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Old 06-21-2011, 09:02 AM
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Lol, just a stock MINI charging system! I doubt I'd use the 250 W lamps. The 100 W ones are plenty bright! I'd run the 10 gage wire directly to the battery.

The Ford starter solenoid is a high current relay, it takes about an amp to activate it. They cost less than ten dollars at any auto parts store. I've used them in a lot of non-standard applications. They make a real satisfying "Clack" when you turn them on!

Dave
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Old 06-21-2011, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DneprDave View Post
Lol, just a stock MINI charging system! I doubt I'd use the 250 W lamps. The 100 W ones are plenty bright! I'd run the 10 gage wire directly to the battery.

The Ford starter solenoid is a high current relay, it takes about an amp to activate it. They cost less than ten dollars at any auto parts store. I've used them in a lot of non-standard applications. They make a real satisfying "Clack" when you turn them on!

Dave
Dave: I have used those solenoids in the past on other projects and they do indeed give a satisfying CLACK when they engage Just make sure you have an inline fuse coming off the battery to blow if anything goes wrong when the lamp circuit is engaged.

S.
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Old 06-22-2011, 11:01 AM
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Nicely done!
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  #11  
Old 06-23-2011, 06:22 PM
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Nicely done!
Thanks Mark!

Looking forward to seeing Dave's landing lights. Maybe he should change his log-on to Seatac Tower

S.
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