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  #16  
Old 02-28-2014, 07:07 AM
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Horror of horror's, the klunk is coming back!! I am beginning to think that the FSD will not work with the factory "Sport Suspension". Maybe the heavier springs are over extending the shocks???

I am lost and will probably just get a set of coilovers and be done with this bizarre odyssey.
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  #17  
Old 03-03-2014, 01:48 PM
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Switching to Bilstein B8's with Swift Spec-R springs.

NO MORE KONI!!
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  #18  
Old 03-03-2014, 04:31 PM
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How much difference is there in the handling between the two?
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  #19  
Old 03-03-2014, 05:08 PM
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The difference between the B6 and the B8 Bilstein's is just the length of the piston stroke. The B6 is designed for long stroke shocks and standard springs and the B8 is designed for the short stroke of the lowering springs. The valving is identical and the B8 works as designed for the shorter length of the Swift springs.

About 1 inch lower for the Swift Spec-R spring is what I seem to get in reports across all the Forums, although the advertised lowering is 1.25" I think.

We will see how they ride pretty soon, or at least as soon as the springs show up.
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Last edited by SMOG; 03-03-2014 at 05:36 PM.
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  #20  
Old 03-03-2014, 06:42 PM
bentrydr bentrydr is offline
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Are you running OEM springs, or have you replaced them with something else? I ran FSDs on both my MINIs and never had any problems but I used stock springs.
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  #21  
Old 03-03-2014, 06:50 PM
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What year were "both" MINI's? Your current listing?

Did you have the Factory Sport Suspension option on the late model MINI, or were you using "stock" standard suspension OEM springs?

The SS springs are harder and that is the only reason I can think of that the FSD's were getting torn up.

The Bilstein's are going to be paired with Swift Spec-R springs as I Posted earlier today.
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  #22  
Old 03-03-2014, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMOG View Post
... or at least as soon as the springs show up.
Speaking of an improved suspension, Spring is just around the corner.
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  #23  
Old 03-03-2014, 08:23 PM
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Just in time to Spring into action for Ocean Shores and the wily clams :-)
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  #24  
Old 03-04-2014, 04:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMOG View Post
What year were "both" MINI's? Your current listing?

Did you have the Factory Sport Suspension option on the late model MINI, or were you using "stock" standard suspension OEM springs?

The SS springs are harder and that is the only reason I can think of that the FSD's were getting torn up.

The Bilstein's are going to be paired with Swift Spec-R springs as I Posted earlier today.
'kulmini' was a 2006 'S' with sport suspension and 'kulbee' was a 2006 Cooper with sport suspension and both has FSDs from the time I purchased them until sold. I never had a problem with the shocks and in both cases I had them installed by an independent auto shop.

Just so you know, at one time I went by the screen name 'kulmini'.
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  #25  
Old 03-04-2014, 04:38 AM
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Completely different suspension and if I am correct the parts are not interchangeable.

Bilstein is now listing different shocks/strut part numbers for the later models with the dreaded Sport Suspension so they figured out something that KONI did not. I would love to measure the height above the ground at the front of the lifting point of a "Standard Suspension" 2011 MINI just to see how much further off the ground mine is. I know it is 5/8" higher than or 2009 Cooper and I thought with a "sport suspension option" they would have made it a bit lower, but that is not the case.

Don, I was, and am, running OEM Sport Suspension springs; I am going to change the whole mess...

Why did you sell Kulmini? It was a nice ride! Did you order your new Coupe or Countryman with the Sport Suspension Option?
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Last edited by SMOG; 03-06-2014 at 06:11 PM. Reason: More questions!
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  #26  
Old 03-13-2014, 04:26 AM
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Well, I changed the SPRINGS, STRUTS and lowered the car an inch. Since it was already about 5/8" higher than our Cooper I thought it might not hurt anything. It still clears our driveway which is the worst case scenario.

Bilstein B8 struts with Swift Spec-R springs. Rides a bit more firm than the Koni FSD's on "Sport Suspension" springs but not as jarring as the OEM "Sport Suspension".

I need to get an alignment after I replace a bolt on the lower rear strut mount. When I took the bolt out to swap the struts it did not feel right and when I put it back in the hole, finger tight there was debris in there so I cleaned it out and put the bolt in and tried to torque it. It did not torque properly because the Trailing Arm hole threads had been trashed. I did not put them on so I am not sure the scenario but I will try a different approach to putting it back together.

It was not the bolt that was failing, it was the threads in the trailing arm, which I feared it may be.

After removing the bolt and measuring it and the hole through the struts (OEM, Bilstein & Koni) the hole was 15.5mm, the bolt threads are 14mm and the smooth section of the strut bolt was 13.3mm. So that raises questions.

1. A bolt with a smooth section of 14 or 15mm would slide through the strut easily so why not use a larger bolt?

2. With a larger bolt then the hole that is stripped in the Trailing Arm could be tapped out larger and torqued to spec couldn't it?

3. I measured every possible way for clearance of a nut with washer on the wheel side of that Trailing Arm with both sets of wheels, the OEM and the Team Dynamics, and there would be zero interference by using a nut and washer, so why not a longer bolt that went through everything??

A lot less money and hassle, and the biggest hassle about the through bolt is having to remove the wheel to torque the lower strut bolt, and honestly, how often do you torque them?!?

Any thoughts?
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  #27  
Old 03-13-2014, 01:48 PM
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Done! New struts in place and rear strut lower bolt attachment resolved.

Tapped out the Trailing Arm hole with a 14mm tap. Ground a small flt on the wheel side of the trailing arm so the washer (I ground a flat side on the washer so I did not have to take away to much on the trailing arm) and nut would sit flat. I did not remove enough material to get a socket wrench socket on that nut.

Got a new 14mm Grade 10.9 bolt long enough to go clear through and just hold the nut and washer. I had to get a die to lengthen the threaded portion of the bolt. All very easy.

Ran the bolt with strut into the trailing arm until it stopped without large amounts of torque. The tightened the lock nut on the wheel side. Went back to torque the strut side while holding the wrench on the wheel side.

Mission accomplished. 122 ft# of torque.

Now the car sits a total of 9/16 inch lower than our '09 Cooper.
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  #28  
Old 05-08-2014, 04:57 AM
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We just got back yesterday from a trip to Virginia and then to The Dragon coming from the North Carolina side. Great trip, will Post about it when I get photos sorted.

The replacement of the shocks/struts went well!! NO CLUNKS OR RATTLES!!!!! I cannot imagine that after a trip of that length that I did not find screws, bolts and nuts laying on the floor of the MINI. The roads were less than smooth, especially in West Virginia, but the Bilstien B8's with the Swift Spec-R springs handled it very well. Even my wife did not complain about a rough ride, she even commented that her back would have been sore after that much seat time in her 2005 Honda Accord that we sold yet she felt fine coming back over Snoqualmie.

I highly recommend this setup for great handling with a firm ride and a lower ride. Way better than the OEM "Sport Suspension".
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  #29  
Old 05-08-2014, 06:54 AM
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Nice to hear how well the Bilstien's worked out for you. And welcome back. Knowing you and how many pictures you have, it might take awhile to see them posted.
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  #30  
Old 05-08-2014, 07:02 AM
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Correct! I am going to generate a web page with an explanation of the adventure.

We got really lucky, saw many wrecks, even a fire across the freeway!
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